Pokhara

As I write this, there's a 8 year old boy playing a video game that consists of him dressing an androgynous boy up with fancy clothing... this is why I really love Asia. But I digress.
After living in Pokhara for about 5 weeks on and off, I will finally venture out back to Tansen. As always, Pokhara is always so laid back and the food here is great, people are great, scenery is great, there's not much reason why I should leave except for work!
I've met great people and have had a chance to learn more about leprosy and other how an organization such as Green Pastures work and also had a chance to reflect on how I would like to work in such capacities. All is not work though, last weekend decided last minute to go on a 3 day rafting trip along the Kali Gandaki river. We had fair rapids, although sometimes they were a bit too exciting and we did flip some rafts along the way. The best part was camping on the secluded beaches and hanging by the campfires at the end of a long rafting day and eating great dinners.
When we arrived back to POkhara, we were greeted with massive throngs of people because of the Nepali New Year (Happy 2066!!). There was a huge fun fair set up with a questionable motorcycle derby ring and rollercoasters by the banks fo the Fewa Lake. I don't think I've seen so many people at Lakeside before.
I will really miss Pokhara and all the randomness it invokes, also will miss The Real Baguette and Guru Lotus and floating on a rowboat on Fewa Lake.

Sweaty days

The heat has been turned on in Pokhara!! Everyday, it's getting incrementally hotter and hotter, I can gauge it mostly by how much I'm sweating by the time I bike to and from the hospital. And each day, I'm basically more soaked than the previous day. Also, the midday heat feels like a sauna.
Anyways enough about the heat, work at the hospital has been really good. Been treating a variety of cases, mostly SCI but some strange cases with unknown diagnoses. One is a possible meningitis/encephalitis with significant motor impairment. So, it's been a big challenge in many ways. By coincidence 2 staff from the SIRC are coming to Green Pastures so it's been/and going to be a bit of a reunion!
Bandhs (strikes blocking transport as they block the only highways/roads in the country) have been prevalent throughout the time I've been here. Today there was a countrywide bandh. So, effectively shutting down a lot of the country. More people were on the roads today and I actually felt a bit safe biking in town without the buses with blaring horns. Was planning to head to Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha but due to bandhs, not sure if that will even be possible, and if it is, whether I can get back! Will keep you posted.

ABC and back

Returned 2 days ago from the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek to Annapurna Base Camp. It was one of the most grueling things I've done in a long time. Also one of the most physically miserable times I've had. But the views were definitely worth it. Every morning, you're greeted with the fantastic views of Fishtail and Annapurna III. It was hard going most of the trek because there are constant valleys and slopes and many stairs. For me, that was killer, I have a very very hard time going up the stairs, also I was carrying my pack, which I cannot seem to reduce to less than 12 kg!
On the 4th day we ascended to ABC and we started early to avoid any chance of avalanches. It was a good thing because 10 minutes after we passed it, there was an avalanche which I heard the others had to run from. The last 2 hours up to ABC were a bit hard because of the altitude, so I had to really take lots of breaks. Plus there was a huge snowfall from the previous day and a little snowfall during the day so it was a bit hard going. The snow never seemed to end. When we got to ABC, it was such a great relief and the sun came out as well!
The next morning, went out for sunrise, beautiful gleaming mountains surrounding the Base Camp and so quiet. It was really amazing. Here is a picture of my guide Padum who really helped me on the way down by insisting on carrying my bag since I physically couldn't do it anymore and helping me up from my slips and falls (which were many!).
Am back in Pokhara now, heading off to daal bhat!!

Trekking to hot springs!

I have finally finished the official teaching project at Green Pastures and today had consolidated pretty much everything we had thought about over the last 2 weeks. I was able to have a really informative conversation with the PT working at the centre and I think we've found a better way to make this project more worthwhile. So I feel really good that it's ended on a fairly positive note, and tomorrow I'll be heading to the mountains to start a 4 day trek to Tatopani (literally hot water) with Sylvia and enjoy being in the hills for a few days. The plan is then to return to Pokhara and then rest a day and then move on to do my second trek to the Annapurna Sanctuary which I hope isn't blocked by avalanches.
When I return again, I will be trying to link up with the community branch of GPH and seeing what CBR is like in these regions and see if there is some way I can be of help next time.
I can't wait to see the mountains up close again!

Community visits and mini-trek

We had many eventful days in the last week but the definite highlight was the community visits in the hills with former patients of the hospital. We were asked to see 3 patients, one who was a former nurse who was diagnosed with Guillain Barre syndrome, where the body just attacks the peripheral nervous system. She was very ill and is now very affected and limited in her participation in her community. We visited her first since she was about a 5 minute walk away, but even at that distance, she would not be able to leave her house. She lived in a house with a narrow ridge that no wheelchair or walker would have fit in and the steps into her house would have also prevented proper access. This was a common theme throughout the visits. We were able to identify some needs for her and I think she has good potential to improve and she may even need some bracing, which I will try to arrange for her in Pokhara. What is good is that I have a mini project now and will return to TMH after Pokhara and trek to visit this lady and hopefully give some more rehab while I'm there.
The other visits were interesting, none of the houses were accessible by car or motorbike. It was like trekking in the hills, narrow, rocky slopes, steep stairs which are dangerous for even able-bodied people. It was sad and distressing to see lonely older couples or disabled people unable to seek help when they need to, or access any health services because of the limits of their environment. Unfortunately, there isn't very much that I can do in that regard because of the nature of the terrain and their lifestyle. Many of these people live very isolated lives and when their caregivers pass away, I wonder what will happen to them since there aren't institutions like nursing homes which are readily accessible to them. It's very difficult and distressing. I would definitely love to return to do more community work.
We did a mini-trek with our guesthouse owner, Ganesh and he took us to 3 villages outside of Tansen. We saw brief outlines of the mountains, and it was just so beautiful. Despite the beauty, life is very hard for the Nepali people.
We've been in Tansen for the last weeks and I've really grown to like it here, it's not quite as beautiful as Pokhara, but it has its charm. I would highly recommend a brief stop here if you're in Nepal!

Teaching

Just finished 2 days of intensive teaching with the therapists and allied staff. It was at times a bit too much info, I think for the amount of time we had. Most of the evenings we spent editing and cutting things out. I think we all felt a little unsure about the impact that we're having and whether it's effective at all or not. We felt that we weren't sure about the actual mission of the trip, why the hospitals were selected (they are all very well funded and well staffed centres), what the tangible goal is for the entire project.
I expected there to be more need but all I see a need for is mostly community based centres for screening of important rehab issues such as contractures and sores. It's a little disheartening but it's nice to see staff really enjoy the sessions. The nurses had so much fun during the sessions and I think they learned a few skills to help them on the wards.
I'm glad to be on this team where we are so like-minded and similarly goal directed. It's good to be able to vent our frustrations as we all feel the same way at this point about the project. I'm happy to be here but feel that we could have been more use in another way.
Last night we attended the graduation ceremony of the med students and it was really nice to see them all in an informal setting. The only part I felt weird was when they starting singing hymns and then I just felt uncomfortable. My other question re: this trip, why are we only at faith-based hospitals? That unnerves me.

Today we set off for the hills on a community visit and will bring back stories!

Back in Nepal!

Back in Nepal after a grueling 27 hour trip. However, did manage to sneak in a quick tour of London during our layover and made me want to go back! Yes Marcia, I'll try to switch my flight around.
Arrived back in KTM, felt really like home, didn't realize how much I had missed it. The smells, the sounds... However, going back after a year, you see the changes. There is more political instability, more power outages (KTM is down to 4 hours of power), more bandhs, less trust in the government. It's very interesting. Thamel is also changing, new and flashier stores, (new Pumpernickel!)
People are still just as warm and makes me happy to be back. Had a long 4 hours ride to the hospital we'll be working in at Tansen, the Tansen Mission Hospital. I have a slight problem with faith based organizations and feel like a slight poseur coming here and being an atheist. It's a great hospital though with many great doctors and volunteers coming to work here for long term. I'm excited for the next weeks and really excited to be trekking around a new area. Tomorrow, sunrise walk outside the city! Pictures soon to come!

Nepal bound!

Hey all,
I've attached a link to a new more official blog for my trip to Nepal. Check here for less formal updates as I will likely post more professional posts for the donors and members back home.
I'm a bit nervous and excited to head off to Nepal again, not sure what to expect as I'll be working in new hospitals and in new towns (well, except for the lovely Pokhara).
Am glad to be able to hang out in London a bit first, and get a nice tour from Monica! Yay! And I'll be in Iran, albeit only for 2 hours, but still, Iran.
Hope some of you are still reading this blog!